LCD Side Mount Bracket - Prusa MK3s

New version here - https://www.printables.com/model/85200-lcd-side-mount-mk3s

This sturdy and lightweight triangular side mount allows you to attach the LCD to the left or right side lower side frame of the printer at a 30% angle. It is attached to three small frame inserts in the frame tubing. The LCD ribbon cables will reach to both sides.

This is my preferred position for these reasons:

1. Frees up the front for a camera mount: I now can use mods that attach to the four front screws where the LCD used to be, which is prime real estate. Some things are better directly in front of the printer, such as a time lapse camera mount. This is main reason I made this side mount.
2. Ease of use: I sit to the left side of the printer and now the LCD screen faces me directly.

Takes up less space on desk: The LCD was close to the edge of the table and I didn't want to bang it accidentally. You will need the following new screws to attach to the frame:
3x M3 12mm screws
3x M3 hex nuts

Get drop in tnuts like these if you don't want to take apart the frame - https://www.amazon.com/Sutemribor-Hammer-Fastener-Aluminum-Profile/dp/B07FPLZXTF

See my newremix below that removes 2 sides of the triangle and takes less than half the time to print!

Please check out the assembly instructions with Photos to make it easy for you.

You might also want to make this so the LCD cable is held better if you print this LCD bracket: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485143

No you can mount a heavy camera in the front for Octolaspe, as well as a Raspberry case with this mod: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3518161

My favorite mod replaces just your Einsy door with an integrated Z-axis brace so your printer has virtually no Z wobble:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3476970

My feet mod for reducing all vibration and noise by 95%, possible improving prints:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3496474

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer:

i3 MK3

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

.2

Infill:

30%

Filament: Prusament PETG Orange
Notes:

Mount at .2 layer height, 30% gyroid infill, PETG 232/247 temp. No speed higher than 45 mm/sec. Brackets 100% infill. 4 hour print time.

Assembly Instructions

rnrnrnrnrn1. Decide if you prefer the LCD on the right or left of the printer. It will be at a 30% angle facing mostly to the side and a little towards the front. Optional but highly recommended. Print this out to hold the LCD cable. This LCD cable holder will be easy to install because you already will have the frame ends exposed. You need one more FrameBracket2 and the LCD clip. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485143rnrn2. Print out either the leftLCDmount_flipped or rightLCDmount_flipped (see pic below). No supports are needed. PETG is preferred for the strength but PLA should be OK. Use 20% infill at least.rnNote - It prints upside down, so the support tabs on the bottom are pointing up on the print bed. rnrn3. Print out three FrameBracket2 (see pic below). These should be 100% infill. PETG is preferred. Sand these brackets well after printing so they can slide easily into the frame opening later. rnrn4. Turn off the printer and unplug it. Slide the print bed to the back.rnrn5. Remove your LCD support arms from the front frame by unscrewing the four screws it attached to and placing those M310mm screws aside. Also, make sure to keep the four small hex lock nuts in the LCD frame. They fall out easily. Try to keep them in the existing holes or put them back in if they fall out.rnrn6. Remove the LCD Cables from the LCD. Remember the cable marked with two black lines is on the left. rnrn7. Attach the old LCD support arms to the new mount (see pic below). Screw in the four M3 10mm screws into the two pairs of holes. The three tabs at the bottom of the new mount should point downward.rnrn8. Slightly loosen the eight large M3 screws on the front frame panel that screw into the side T 3030 frame bars. Once they are all a bit loose, then go back and fully unscrew each of the them. Try not to move the two side frames or you might need to recalibrate the printer.rnrn9. Push in three hex nets into the framebrackets well (see pic below).rnrn10. Screw in the three support brackets to the mounting brace with three M3 12mm screws. (see pic).rnrn11. Ease the first bracket into the frame hole. Loosen it until it goes in. (see pic).rnrn12. Repeat for the next bracket and the final one.rnrn13. Position the mounting bracket where you want along the frame, either towards the Z motor or towards the front frame brace and then full tighten the three screws (see pic).rnrn14. Lower the frame back and insert each of the eight screws. They should go in easily. If not the frame end isn't lined up.rnrn15. Reroute the LCD ribbon cables under the frame and attach them. (see pic) The one with two lines goes on the connector furthest from the dial.

Per #2 - Print out either the left or right LCD mount. It prints upside down. Is is about to print the three tabs in this pic. No supports are needed.

Per #3 - print out three frame brackets in this orientation. No supports are needed. Sand these well so they slide into the frame later.

Per #7 - Attach to the LCD arms. Screw in the four M3 10mm screws that were originally used into the pairs of holes. Make sure they engage the priginal square hex nuts in the mounting bracets/

Per #9 insert three hex nuts. Push them in well.

Per #10 Screw on the three support brackets to the mounting brace with 3 M3 12mm screws. It is easier if you just turn the bracket rather than the screw.

Per #11 Ease the first support bracket into the hole. Loosen it until it goes in. Continue with the other two brackets.

Per #13 Position the bracket where you like and fully tighten the three screws.

Per #15 Route the LCD ribbon cables under the frame and attach them. The one with two lines attaches to the connector furthest from the dial.

Category: 3D Printer Parts